This band is interlaced hemstitching. It presented several interesting challenges. First as I mentioned in the last post - it's deep - 10 threads, which in this linen is nearly a half inch. And it's not hemstitched. The threads are just left loose in the fabric.
You can't leave them like that, of course, the ground threads above and below would eventually start to 'migrate' into the openwork area.
So the next step is to twist each set of four threads. I used an extra, sturdy needle to make the twist. I know that often the instructions will have you just use the working needle, but you have to insert it oddly for the second side to work and it's just very awkward and also puts a lot of stress on the working thread. In this case, the working thread is 12 Perle cotton and could probably handle it. But the two needle method is just miles easier.
Last, but certainly not least, those beads between each twist. The pattern calls for the same petite beads used in the last couple of areas of openwork and elsewhere on the sampler. I tried. Oh, how I tried. But the perle cotton is just too big for the bead opening. I broke a needle threader, a beading needle and three beads before I gave up and searched in the stash for standard Mill Hill beads in a similar metallic gold. It went much better then. And I think the larger size works perfectly for the spacing in this band anyhow. The petite ones would be 'skimpy'.
One final note. Often this type of openwork has the vertical edges done in satin stitch, like you'd do for Hardanger. That goes MUCH faster than preparing the threads by re-weaving. I do like this look with the rewoven ground, but it begs the question - where/how that center working thread is anchored without the satin stitch edge to hold it? I secured it with several backstitches in the right selvage, brought the thread to the back and anchored it along the correct ground thread with a tiny over one back stitch every inch, then brought the thread up in the 'turn' of the re-woven ground stitches 5 and 6. Worked the twists and beads across, down into the turn of the threads at the left edge of the openwork, tiny back stitches every inch or so across to the selvage and ended off.
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| Set up and ready for embellishment |
So the next step is to twist each set of four threads. I used an extra, sturdy needle to make the twist. I know that often the instructions will have you just use the working needle, but you have to insert it oddly for the second side to work and it's just very awkward and also puts a lot of stress on the working thread. In this case, the working thread is 12 Perle cotton and could probably handle it. But the two needle method is just miles easier.
Last, but certainly not least, those beads between each twist. The pattern calls for the same petite beads used in the last couple of areas of openwork and elsewhere on the sampler. I tried. Oh, how I tried. But the perle cotton is just too big for the bead opening. I broke a needle threader, a beading needle and three beads before I gave up and searched in the stash for standard Mill Hill beads in a similar metallic gold. It went much better then. And I think the larger size works perfectly for the spacing in this band anyhow. The petite ones would be 'skimpy'.
One final note. Often this type of openwork has the vertical edges done in satin stitch, like you'd do for Hardanger. That goes MUCH faster than preparing the threads by re-weaving. I do like this look with the rewoven ground, but it begs the question - where/how that center working thread is anchored without the satin stitch edge to hold it? I secured it with several backstitches in the right selvage, brought the thread to the back and anchored it along the correct ground thread with a tiny over one back stitch every inch, then brought the thread up in the 'turn' of the re-woven ground stitches 5 and 6. Worked the twists and beads across, down into the turn of the threads at the left edge of the openwork, tiny back stitches every inch or so across to the selvage and ended off.
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